Reef Bay Trail St. John — The Hike With Petroglyphs Ruins and a Secret Beach
Nobody else was on the trail that day.
We hiked down through the jungle, past ruins being slowly consumed by the forest, past Taino petroglyphs carved into rock more than a thousand years ago, all the way to a beach at the bottom that most visitors to St. John never see. Then we hiked back up. Then instead of waiting for a bus we found a rough trail that dropped us down to Maho Beach for lunch.
The whole thing took about two hours. It was one of the best days we have had in the USVI.
Getting There
The Reef Bay Trail starts at a trailhead on Centerline Road in the middle of St. John. Take a taxi from Cruz Bay — confirm your pickup arrangements before you let the driver leave. The trailhead is not somewhere you want to be stranded.
The trail runs roughly 2.2 miles downhill to the beach. Two miles downhill sounds easy. Going back up reminds you that it was not.
What You Pass On The Way Down
The Ruins
The trail passes through what was once a working plantation — stone walls being slowly reclaimed by the jungle. Brick columns. Arched doorways. Structures that were abandoned so long ago that trees now grow through the middle of them. The jungle is winning and has been for a long time.
At the bottom sits the Reef Bay Sugar Mill — one of the best preserved plantation ruins in the US Virgin Islands. Stone walls still standing. The tall chimney stack still reaching above the tree line. A cleared area around it that makes you stop and actually look at what you are seeing.
St. John was covered in sugar plantations in the 18th century. The Reef Bay trail passes through the remains of that history on the way to the beach.
The Petroglyphs
About halfway down the trail a set of stone boulders sits beside a small stream. Carved into the surface — faces, figures, symbols that archaeologists believe were made by the Taino people over a thousand years before Columbus arrived.
They are not dramatic in the way a museum exhibit is dramatic. They are subtle. Easy to miss if you are not looking. Extraordinary when you stop and realize what you are actually looking at — human beings stood on this exact spot over a thousand years ago and carved these marks into this rock.
Nobody was on the trail that day. We stood there alone with something that old and that quiet for as long as we wanted.
The Beach
The trail ends where the jungle opens onto Genti Beach — an empty crescent of sand with turquoise water and not another person in sight. You earn this beach. You cannot drive to it. You cannot take a boat directly to it. You hike two miles through the jungle and it is waiting at the bottom.
We swam. We sat. We had the whole thing to ourselves.
Getting Back
We hiked back up — about the same time as going down. Your legs will know about it the next day.
After making it back to the top we found a rough trail that dropped down to Maho Beach on the north shore. Grabbed lunch. Spent the afternoon on the beach before heading back to Cruz Bay. If you have the energy it turns the Reef Bay Trail into a full St. John day rather than just a hike.
There is also a water taxi service that runs from Genti Beach back to Cruz Bay on certain days. We did not use it but it is worth checking current availability before you go if hiking back up is not something you want to do.
What To Bring
Water — more than you think you need. The trail is shaded but the hike back up is work.
Good shoes — not flip flops. The trail has roots, rocks, and stream crossings.
Snacks — there is nothing at the bottom. Pack food.
Cash — for the water taxi if you are taking it back and for lunch at Maho Beach if you find your way there.
A camera — the petroglyphs, the ruins, the moment the jungle opens onto the beach. You will want all of it documented.
Frequently Asked Questions
How hard is the Reef Bay Trail? Moderate. The hike down is manageable for most people in reasonable shape. The hike back up is significantly harder. Budget more time and energy for the return than you think you need.
How long does it take? We did the full hike — down and back up — in about two hours. Add time if you linger at the petroglyphs, the ruins, or the beach. You should linger at all three.
Do I need a guide? No — the trail is well marked and maintained by the National Park Service. A ranger led hike is available on certain days if you want more historical context.
Is the water taxi reliable? Check current availability before your hike. Do not plan your entire day around it being available.
Was there anyone else on the trail? When we went — nobody. The Reef Bay Trail sees a fraction of the visitors that Trunk Bay or Cruz Bay see on any given day.
Can you swim at the beach at the bottom? Yes. Genti Beach is calm and beautiful. Bring snorkel gear if you have it.
