St. Lucia Underwater — Three Beaches, One Island, and the Eels Nobody Warned Us About
A vendor selling coconut shell crafts on the beach at Ti Kaye pointed us toward the far end of the shoreline on our first day. Go past where the beach juts out, he said. That is where the fish are.
He was right. He was also the best dive briefing we received on the entire island.
Gros Piton and Anse L'Ivrogne
We hiked Gros Piton. When we came back down our guide mentioned a beach called Anse L'Ivrogne. The kind of place you only hear about from someone who lives there. No resort. No crowds. The kind of beach that exists on St. Lucia in abundance if you know where to look and who to ask.
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — Gros Piton guided hike]
Just South of Sugar Beach
We did not snorkel at Sugar Beach itself. We found a back road that came in from the south, parked on the side of the road, and walked in to a spot just beyond the resort boundary. The resort was crowded enough that we never got in the water there. The spot we found south of it was not.
We saw eels here. The crowds a few hundred meters north had no idea.
Anse Cochon at Ti Kaye
This was our best snorkeling on the island and we almost missed it entirely.
On our first day heading down to the Ti Kaye beach a vendor selling handmade crafts — coconut shells, carved starfish — stopped us and pointed toward the far end of the beach. Past where the shoreline juts out, he said. That is where the fish are.
He was not wrong.
The coral along that jutting section of shore was exceptional. The fish variety was unlike anything we had seen at the other St. Lucia beaches. And then the eels appeared — goldspotted, partially buried in the sand, completely unbothered by us being six inches away with a camera.
We ended up buying the carved starfish from him later that week. Felt like the least we could do.
[AMAZON LINK — underwater camera]
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — Ti Kaye resort booking]
Anse Chastanet — The Wall
The Ti Kaye dive excursion nearly did not happen. Not enough people to fill the boat. We told them we would cover the whole thing if necessary. They found another couple.
We arrived at Anse Chastanet with Jade Mountain rising from the jungle behind us. We jumped in. The wall dropped away with no visible bottom. Just blue getting darker until there was nothing.
The eels were here too. Everywhere along the wall.
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — Ti Kaye diving excursions]
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the snorkeling at Sugar Beach worth it?
The resort beach itself was too crowded for our taste. The spot just south accessible via a back road was significantly better and almost empty.
Do you need a guide for Gros Piton?
Yes — guides are required for the hike. Worth it entirely. Ours told us about Anse L'Ivrogne afterward which we would never have found otherwise.
What are the goldspotted eels like?
Genuinely unbothered by snorkelers. We got within six inches of one digging in the sand at Anse Cochon. They are larger than most people expect and completely stunning up close.
Is the Ti Kaye beach public?
Anse Cochon is accessible by boat or through Ti Kaye resort. Staying at Ti Kaye gives you direct beach access and the benefit of local knowledge from people like the vendor who pointed us toward the best snorkeling.
What about the dive at Anse Chastanet?
Book through Ti Kaye directly. The wall dive is genuinely extraordinary — the kind of experience that makes you understand why people travel specifically to dive St. Lucia.
Tell them we sent you.