St. Thomas — The Uncharted Guide
St. Thomas is the easiest Caribbean island to reach from the US, which means it is also the easiest one to get wrong.
Most people stay too close to the cruise ship crowds, eat at the obvious spots, and leave thinking St. Thomas is fine but nothing special. It is considerably more than that if you know where to go.
Here is everything we know after more trips than we can count.
Quick Facts
| Best time to visit | Thanksgiving week and mid-November through May |
| Getting there | Direct flights from most major US hubs to STT |
| Getting around | Private taxis — easy, affordable, everywhere |
| Budget range | $$ — food on the island is generally expensive, plan accordingly |
| Language | English |
| Passport required | No — US citizens need a valid government-issued ID only |
Why We Keep Coming Back
We got married here. We have brought family here. We have come just the two of us. St. Thomas is the hub of the US Virgin Islands and while the cruise ship crowds can overwhelm Charlotte Amalie, the rest of the island holds some of the best water in the Caribbean.
You just have to know where to look and when to go.
When To Go
We travel every year over Thanksgiving week. It sits at the tail end of hurricane season and the start of the winter high season — weather is reliably good, crowds have not fully arrived yet, and flight prices are reasonable if you book a few months out.
Mid-November through May is the overall sweet spot. Weather is at its best, humidity is lower, and the trade winds keep things comfortable.
Hurricane season runs June through November with the peak threat in August and September. St. Thomas does not get hit often but it does get hit — Maria in 2017 was significant. If you are traveling August through October keep an eye on forecasts and make sure your travel insurance covers hurricane related cancellations. We always get travel insurance for Caribbean trips regardless of season.
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — World Nomads travel insurance]
The best flight deals tend to appear when you book three to four months out. Last minute peak season flights to STT get expensive fast.
Getting There
Direct flights from most major US hubs land at Cyril E. King Airport — STT. The airport is small and easy to navigate. Taxis are immediately available outside arrivals.
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — Skyscanner flight search]
Getting Around — Private Taxis
We use private taxis for almost everything in St. Thomas. Most beach runs cost $20–$30 for two people. Affordable, convenient, and means you never have to worry about parking at a busy beach or navigating steep winding roads you do not know.
Safari buses run on the island and offer a cheaper option for longer routes — but for beach hopping between specific spots private taxis are the practical choice.
One important note from personal experience — always confirm the price before you get in. We once assumed the fare on a route we had taken before and were surprised at the destination. Five seconds of confirmation saves an awkward conversation. Cash tips go a long way with drivers and make every interaction on the island smoother.
Where To Stay — Why We Always Come Back to Margaritaville
We have stayed at Margaritaville St. Thomas more times than we can count and we have tried alternatives. That experience taught us something.
On our second trip we stayed elsewhere. Without getting into specifics — one property left us walking out within thirty minutes, luggage in hand, booking somewhere else on our phones in the taxi. We dragged our bags to my sister's unit the next morning and booked Margaritaville that same day. The properties we stayed at have since been updated and remodeled and we wish them well. Looking back it is hilarious.
We have stayed at other Margaritaville locations and we know what to expect from the brand. Clean rooms. Good food on site. Reliable service. That consistency is worth something when you are planning a trip from a thousand miles away. We have never listened to much Jimmy Buffett. The brand won us over anyway.
The resort sits on Water Bay on the east end of the island — away from the cruise ship chaos and close to Red Hook for the St. John ferry. The water at Water Bay is not suitable for swimming but the resort has two well maintained pools and every beach worth visiting is a short taxi ride away. We use it as a base camp not a beach destination.
Every room has a kitchenette with a full-size fridge, microwave, coffee maker, and a Margaritaville blender. The taxi stand out front means we are mobile from the moment we arrive. The on-site laundry means we pack for ten days in a carry-on.
One thing you do not realize until you have done both — staying at a resort versus a cruise ship means no lines. No waiting to get on. No waiting to get off. No waiting for a drink. No waiting for dinner. You move at your own pace on your own schedule. That alone is worth something.
Full honest review in its own post.
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — Margaritaville St. Thomas booking]
The Grocery Store Run
The night we arrive we take a taxi to the Red Hook grocery store and stock up. Rum, mixers, snacks, whatever we need for the week. We make our own drinks in the room every morning, fill the Hydroflasks, pack the sackpack, and we are out the door early. The resort bars are fine but the grocery store is how we keep costs down for the next trip.
[AMAZON LINK — Hydroflask]
[AMAZON LINK — Under Armour sackpack]
[AMAZON LINK — Margaritaville blender]
The on-site laundry is why we can pack for ten days in a carry-on. We do a load in the evening when we are back from the day and it costs almost nothing.
The Beaches
Every day is a different beach. Here is what we have found across multiple trips.
Magens Bay — one of the most beautiful bays in the Caribbean. Long beach, calm water, sea turtles feeding in the seagrass throughout the day. We have swum alongside them multiple times — close enough to watch them eat, far enough to leave them alone. Get there early — by mid-morning the cruise ship excursions arrive and the energy changes completely. There is a small entry fee for non-residents. Worth every cent.
Important — it is illegal to touch or harass sea turtles in the US Virgin Islands. Watch from a respectful distance. The experience is extraordinary enough without getting closer.
Secret Harbor — quieter than Magens Bay and rarely gets the cruise ship crowd. The snorkeling is genuinely excellent — squid, reef fish in numbers that surprise first-time visitors, and on one particularly lucky day a wahoo appeared out of nowhere. Do not expect to see one every time. The reef is worth getting in the water for regardless. The Secret Harbor Beach Resort has a restaurant right on site worth stopping at for lunch. This is also where we got married. Full story in its own post.
Sapphire Beach — good snorkeling, calm water, and a view of St. John across the channel. The Sapphire Beach Resort sits right on the beach with some genuinely nice condos. Worth a half day or a full one.
Coki Beach — a five minute walk from Margaritaville. Smaller, more local in feel, and easy to add to any day without planning. The snorkeling is good and the atmosphere is relaxed.
Full beach hopping guide with timing and logistics in its own post.
St. John — Thirty Minutes Away
The Red Hook ferry to St. John runs regularly. Roughly thirty minutes and you are on a completely different island. We have been to Trunk Bay, Waterlemon Cay, and the Reef Bay trail more times than we can count. St. John deserves its own full day — or several.
Full St. John guide in its own post.
[AFFILIATE LINK PLACEHOLDER — Red Hook ferry information]
Mountaintop
One trip per visit. The views over Magens Bay and the surrounding islands are extraordinary. The shopping is genuinely good — shirts, souvenirs, local goods. The banana daiquiris are the best on the island and heavier on the rum than you expect. Go before a beach day not after.
Shopping — Beyond the Cruise Port
Most visitors stick to Havensight at the cruise ship port. It is fine. But there are better options nearby.
Yacht Haven Grande — right near Havensight but most cruise passengers never find it. Better shopping, a fraction of the crowd, and a marina setting that feels more like the real St. Thomas.
Charlotte Amalie — duty-free shopping, local jewelry, and a genuine Caribbean town feel when the cruise ships are not overwhelming the streets.
Red Hook — our favorite area beyond the resort. Souvenirs, restaurants, and a local energy that Charlotte Amalie loses on busy cruise days.
Where To Eat
Food on St. Thomas is generally expensive — it is an island and most things are imported. Budget more than you think you need. That said there are places worth every dollar.
Duffy's Love Shack in Red Hook — we have been multiple times. The food is genuinely memorable and the atmosphere is unlike anywhere else on the island. The kind of place you end up going back to without planning to.
Pesce Italian in Red Hook — one of the best meals we have had on the island and surprisingly reasonable by St. Thomas standards. Worth making a reservation.
The Smoking Rooster at Havensight — we eat here every trip. Great food, consistent, and right at the cruise port area which makes it easy to combine with a shopping afternoon.
Sun and Sea Bar at Margaritaville — open air, right on the water, tarpon swimming below the surface. Take the small path around the side of Water Bay to find it. The natural end to a St. Thomas day done right.
Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville Restaurant on site — more than the cheeseburger reputation suggests. Full menu, proper sit-down dining for when you want a real meal.
One thing worth knowing before you sit down anywhere — service in St. Thomas runs on island time. Your food is not coming out fast and that is not an accident. Sit back, enjoy the view, order another drink. Fighting the pace of the island is the wrong approach entirely.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a passport for St. Thomas?
No. US citizens do not need a passport to visit the US Virgin Islands. A valid government-issued ID is sufficient. Worth noting — if you plan to visit the British Virgin Islands you will need a passport for that.
Is St. Thomas safe for tourists?
Yes — especially in resort areas and popular beaches. Use the same common sense you would anywhere. Do not leave valuables unattended on the beach. Taxis at night are reliable and affordable.
What does getting around cost?
Most taxi runs between beaches cost $20–$30 for two people. Always confirm the price before you get in.
Is food expensive in St. Thomas?
Generally yes. Budget more than you expect. Red Hook has some of the best value options on the island — Pesce Italian and Duffy's Love Shack both punch above their price point. Stocking the room fridge from the Red Hook grocery store with rum, mixers, and snacks on the first night saves significant money across a week.
What is the best beach?
Magens Bay for the experience and sea turtles. Secret Harbor for snorkeling and quiet. Sapphire for views of St. John. Coki Beach is a five minute walk from Margaritaville if you want something easy. Different beaches for different days — which is exactly how we approach it.
When should I go?
Thanksgiving week every year for us and we have never been disappointed. Mid-November through May overall. Avoid August and September if hurricane risk is a concern — and get travel insurance either way.
Can I do a day trip to St. John?
Absolutely. The Red Hook ferry takes about thirty minutes and costs almost nothing. St. John is a completely different island worth at least one full day. Full guide in its own post.
What about service at restaurants?
Island time is real. Your food will arrive when it arrives. Embrace it — you are in the Caribbean, not in a rush.
Tell them we sent you.